Opeongo is Algonquin's largest lake, stretching about 15 miles from the south access point to the tip of the north branch. I've always been intimidated by Opeongo, mainly due to stories and cautions from the travel literature. Having also experienced 3-4 ft waves on Cedar, Kioskokwi, and Hogan in a fully loaded canoe, I wasn't thrilled about paddling Opeongo.

A cloud hovered inches off the lake surface, and only deepened the mystery of what destinations we would discover. It settled in tiny droplets on everything, and seemed to suppress the waves. The lake was as calm as I've ever seen a big lake in Algonquin. To my amazement, we reached our first portage in the North Arm by lunchtime.

Encouraged by our great progress, we decided to press on as far as we could that day in order to separate us from other canoeists. After a brief lunch, we tackled the first portage, a daunting 2180 meters with full packs.

Unfortunately, my partner lost his footing on a wet rock about halfway through. We learned later that he had severely torn his Achilles tendon. In retrospect, I'm amazed he was able and willing to continue.

But at the time, he must have been spurred on by sheer curiosity or stupidity! We paddled Happy Isle, and decided to try the next portage since it was only 380 meters. We made Merchant Lake by dinner, and set up camp for the night.